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JEWELRY
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Gold terms:
Fine gold Fineness
Gold alloy
Karat gold
Plumb gold
Pure gold Solid
gold Gold filled
Gold overlay Gold
plated (GP) ( RGP)
Vermeil Hollow
PLATINUM
The platinum group metals (PGM), comprise six closely related metals: Platinum, Palladium, Rhodium, Ruthenium, Iridium and Osmium.
Platinum has a deep luster and a rich, white color. It is rarer, heavier and denser than all precious metals and considered to be more valuable than gold.
Platinum is often used to set the most valuable gems to produce the finest jewelry because it holds gemstones most securely and it neutral color enhances the brilliance and depth of diamonds and precious stones.
In the United States platinum is usually marked: PT or PLAT
In Europe, it is marked: 950 or PT950
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GOLD
Gold is a beautiful and imperishable metal. It was one of the first metals to be mined because it commonly occurs in its native form (100% Pure)
Pure (100%) gold is too soft, and it is usually mixed with other metals (gold alloys) to make it stronger and more usable for jewelry.
The metals that are mixed with pure gold for strength can also modify the color of gold resulting in different shades of yellow, white, and pink.
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KARATS
Indicates the amount of pure gold in the metal. Abbreviation: kt
37.5% 41.7% 58.5%
75% 100%
USA:
9 kt 10 kt 14 kt
18 kt 24 kt
World Wide: 375
417 585
750 999
Example: Karat gold
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PRICE :
The following are some of the factors that determine the value of a gold
jewelry piece.
WEIGHT: gold is sold by weight - grams (gr) or pennyweights (dwt), the heavier the piece, the higher the gold content, therefore it is more expensive.
DESIGN: designer jewelry is more expensive, especially if it is a one of a kind piece.
FINISH: special finishes to the metal such as matte, or sand-blasted finish add to the cost of the gold jewelry piece.
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SILVER
Silver is the most reflective and affordable of the precious metals.Sterling silver is the standard of quality for articles containing 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper.
Vermeil is a gold plated sterling silver.
MARKS - percentage of pure silver
General -Sterling Silver
American - 925
European - 935
French - 800
Russian - 88 or 84
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Weights, measures and marks:
Avoirdupois
Grain Gram
Penny weight Hallmark
Troy ounce Troy weight
, Tael , Quality mark
,
Trademark
Fine gold:
Gold containing no other elements or metals.
It's also called pure gold or 24K (24 karat) gold and has a fineness of
999.
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Fineness:
The amount of gold in
relation to 1000 parts. For example, gold with a fineness of 750 has 750
parts (75%) gold and 250 parts of other metals.
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Gold alloy:
A mixture of gold
with other metal (s) formed by melting them together. Gold is alloyed
(combined with metals such as silver, copper, zinc, and nickel to reduce
its cost and
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Karat gold:
A gold alloy, which
in the United States must have a fineness of at least 10K. in Britain and
Canada, it must be at least 9K. There's a possibility that 10K will become
the legal gold standard in Britain and Canada too. British use "
carat " not " karat. " Modern European standards are marked
as decimals .750 for 18k, .585 for 14k etc.
Karat (Kt or K): The gold content of metal; refers
to the quality of pure gold.
24 Karat (24K) - pure gold or fine gold
18 Karat (18K) - 75% pure gold and 25% alloy. Can be
yellow or white in color.
14 Karat (14K) - 58.3% pure gold 41.5% alloy. Can be
Yellow or white in color.
10 Karat (10K) - 41.67% pure gold and 58.33% alloy. Can be
yellow or white in color.
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Plumb gold (KP):
In general usage, it
means gold that has the same purity as the mark stamped on it. Therefore,
14KP means gold jewelry which had been soldered could be stamped 14K.
according to current US and Canadian law, the pure gold content must be
within 3 parts per thousand of the stamped karat mark for unsoldered items
and 7 parts per thousand for soldered items. This means that technically
all marked gold sold now is plump gold. In reality, not all gold jewelry
is. When jewelers describe their jewelry as plumb gold, they are
emphasizing that they abide by the law.
In the US and Canada,
gold solders have to comply with the plumb-gold laws. A 14K solder might
range from 12 to 14K. If jewelers want specify that they want a solder
which is actually 14K they may request a plumb solder. When you have
repairs done you should ask if they will use a plumb solder!
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Pure gold:
Same as
fine gold.
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Solid gold:
Gold that
is not hollow. Even though legally in the US, "solid gold" can
only be used for 24K gold, it more commonly refers to karat gold which is
not hollow or layered.
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Gold filled (GF):
Composed of a layer of gold mechanically bonded to a base metal ( a
non-precious metal such a brass or copper.) using heat and pressure.
In the US, the layer must be at least 10K gold and 1/20th the total weight
of the object.
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Gold
overlay
Same as gold filled except the gold layer is thinner. It can be from
1/20th to 1/40th of the total weight of the object.
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Gold plated (GP)
Rolled gold plate (RGP):
Same as gold overlay. An example of how it might be indicated on a piece of jewelry "1/40 12 Kt
RGP, " meaning that the piece has been mechanically bonded with a
layer of gold which is 1/40th of the total weight of the piece.
Canadian law does not allow plated items to be stamped.
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Vermeil
Sterling silver covered with at least 120/millionths of an inch of fine
gold.( the karat of gold should be stated) The layer of gold may be
either electroplated or mechanically bonded.
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Hollow
Hollow is just that hollow. Jewelry that looks big and heavy but feels
light is apt to be hollow. It's a good idea to always ask if a piece is
hollow. You should be told with out asking, but this is not always done.
Hollow jewelry presents a variety of problems. When the walls of the piece
are thin, it dents and wears through quickly, leaving holes. Repairing it
is difficult or impossible. You will find chains, bracelets, earrings,
charms and many other items of jewelry made this way. The advantage
of buying hollow jewelry is cost and weight. A rope chain that is hollow,
or earrings will be lighter and therefore more comfortable to ware and
will cost much less then solid.
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Avoirdupois weight
The
weight system used in the US for food and people and almost everything
except precious metals and gems. One pound avoirdupois equals 16 ounces.
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Troy weight
The
system of weights used in the US and England for gold and silver, in which
1 pound equals 12 ounces, and 1 ounce equals 20 pennyweights. It should
not be confused with avoirdupois weight.
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